051617_YKMV_A8.pdf






May 16, 2017 • Page 8
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Controlling Weeds in
Perennial Beds
By David Graper
SDSU Extension Horticulture
Quackgrass and bromegrass are often
two of the worst weeds in perennial flower
gardens and in perennial vegetables like
asparagus. Kentucky bluegrass and other
lawn grasses can also be a problem. Perennial broadleaf weeds are also other common weeds among flowers and perennial
vegetables. They are both aggressive plants
that can grow among other plants so tightly
that it is difficult to get them out. In addition, plants like quackgrass, bromegrass,
creeping jenny and others produce creeping, underground stems called rhizomes
that allow the plant to spread a foot or
more in a season, producing new plants
as they grow. You will be able to see those
when you dig the plants up. They are usually white and about 1/8” in diameter. Note
that quackgrass is entirely different from
crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual that only
germinates from seed later in the spring
and it does not produce rhizomes. It will
creep along the ground as it becomes more
mature, later in the summer, but it does so
by horizontal stems on the surface of the
ground. Gardeners frequently ask how to
get rid of these tough weeds, so here are a
few tips.
Tip 1: Prevent weeds by planning ahead.
First, prevention is usually the best way
to deal with a weed problem. This is the
place to start if you are thinking of establishing a new garden somewhere.
AUCTIONS
Check the site to see if quack, bromegrass, or other perennial weeds are already
established there. If they are, you are
going to want to try to control them with
repeated cultivation or better yet, a couple
applications of a non-selective, non-residual herbicide like glyphosate. Wait until the
vegetation has gotten several inches tall,
then treat it according to label directions.
If you are doing this during cool, spring
conditions, try to wait about a week before
tilling up the site after treatment. You
only have to wait a couple of days if you
are doing this later in the season in warm
weather. If you can, wait a month or so and
repeat the process to get rid of as many of
the perennial weeds and newly sprouted
annual weeds as you can before planting.
Tip 2: Exchange plants carefully.
The second aspect of prevention is to
be careful not to introduce new weeds
into your garden bed. Gardeners love to
exchange plants with each other. However,
often those plants have unwelcome weeds
growing along with the desirable plants. So,
take a little time to carefully remove any
weeds that might be along for the ride into
your new garden bed. Plants purchased
from a greenhouse, nursery or discount
outlet store might also contain unwanted
weeds, so always check before planting.
Also, remember the definition of a weed – a
plant growing out of place. Many gardeners
love to share plants with friend but often
the recipients of those plants later wish
they had never planted them as the plants
have taken over their garden. So, take a
look at the plants growing in your friend’s
yard first to see if if this might be an aggressive plant that might end up becoming a
weed later on for you in
your garden.
Tip 3: Use edging
around beds.
Another way to help reduce the chances of having
weeds creep into your planting beds is to use exclusion,
usually in the form of some
type of edging. Most people
use a black plastic edging
but other kinds are also
available like brick pavers or
even steel, but these can be
rather expensive. It’s easiest
to install the edging before
you begin planting so you
don’t have to worry about
damaging newly installed
plants. Most plastic edging
can be installed using a flat
garden spade or better yet,
rent a power edger to cut
the small trench along the
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edge of your bed to install the edging.
Tip 4: Consider a precision
herbicide application.
If you are dealing with an established
perennial bed, using an herbicide like
glyphosate gets much more difficult because you have a much greater chance of
misapplication, getting the spray on some
of the plants that you want to keep. You
might be able to do a little spot spraying
but you may still get damage if you are not
extremely careful. Use a coarse spray and
only when there is as little wind as possible. Cover desirable plants with buckets
or other containers if possible to protect
them from the spray and leave the buckets
in place until the spray has dried. There is
another option in using some of the spray
foam formulations of glyphosate. These
products shoot out a narrow stream of the
herbicide solution allowing you to pinpoint
where you apply it, allowing you almost
surgical precision during application. But,
it does take some practice to hit what you
are aiming for so still be very careful. Keep
some water handy so you can immediately
wash off any leaves of desirable plants that
accidentally get hit with the foam.
Tip 5: Review herbicide labels
closely before using.
Gardeners may be tempted to use various broadleaf herbicides to kill broadleaf
weeds like dandelions, thistles or creeping jenny. But, be sure to read the label. I
would probably never suggest using any
of these herbicides in a mixed perennial
flower bed because so many of the flowers we grow will be damaged by phenoxy
herbicides like 2,4-D, Banvel or Trimec.
Even trying to spot spray would be very
risky because of the likelihood of drift or
volatilization of the product that would
likely damage nearby plants. Some of these
products are labeled for use on asparagus
but the directions must be followed closely.
Never use any kinds of herbicides that say
they are ground-clearing products that kill
everything and will prevent weeds from
coming back for several months. They are
generally non-selective herbicides that will
seriously damage your perennials or kill
them, just like they would weeds. Garden
weed preventors, like Preen for example,
can be used, as long as the plants you are
using them around are listed on the label.
However, keep in mind that these kinds of
herbicides prevent seeds from germinating.
They will generally not have any effect on
already-growing perennial or annual weeds.
Tip 6: Spread an organic mulch.
Using organic mulches is another great
way to help reduce the likelihood of weed
problems
developing
around your
perennial plants. I
prefer using
an organic
mulch like
shredded
hardwood
bark. It tends to stay in place, looks attractive, may be available in a variety of
colors, helps to conserve moisture and will
help to prevent new weeds from getting
established by covering the soil. Bark or
wood chips can also be used but may be
washed off beds during heavy rains more
easily than shredded bark. Apply the mulch
about 2-3” deep to be effective. You do not
need to apply a weed barrier fabric first,
and I generally advise against using black
plastic that can interfere with mater and air
movement into the soil. As the mulch decomposes, it will add organic matter to the
soil too. Even though rock mulch is quite
popular, I usually advise against using it as
a mulch. It is heavy and difficult to work
with. It tends to heat up during the summer
time causing heat stress to most perennial
plants and is very difficult to remove if you
decide to change a planting bed later on.
While many think it is a low maintenance
alternative, weeds frequently grow in rock
mulch as the weed seeds are blown in between the rocks. Black plastic is often used
in conjunction with the rock, which is not
good for the perennials either. if you are really interested in having healthy perennial
plants, an organic mulch is a much better
option.
Tip 7: Dig the weeds out by hand.
Generally digging out weeds by hand
can be very difficult and often just results
in causing more plants to spring up as you
cut rhizomes in the process. However, at
this time of year, the newest plants, which
are sprouting up from nodes along the
rhizomes, are just beginning to form their
roots. Therefore, they are easier to dig now,
than they will be any time during the rest
of the season. Use a sturdy trowel to dig a
few inches back from the new leaves you
see growing from the ground. Lift up the
soil and plant to loosen it from the ground.
Then, rather than just jerking it out, see if
you can loosen up more of the connecting
rhizome and additional plants. You might
be surprised as to how far one individual,
but connected plant, can reach. If you dig
carefully, you can get fairly close to established perennials and get rid of much of the
quack or brome.
- See more at: http://igrow.org/gardens/
gardening/controlling-weeds-in-perennialbeds/#sthash.PcKLbUq9.dpuf
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© 2008 KrazyDad.com
5 2
4 5
1 7
1 8 6 Easy 7 4 3 9
ea2 BOOK863 #6 9 6 3
Special Interest
1
4
7 6
8 9
1
3 7
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Cargo Trailer
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5 4 7
2
4
5 3
5 6
2 1
6
1
8
5 4
9
1 2
4 8
9
2 1
1
8 3 5
6
5 9
1
7 8
6 5
1
6 1
2
7 5
2
9
8
2
3
4 9 1 6
7
8 5
Last Tuesday’s
Solution
Sudoku #5
7
4
3 5
2 6
5 6 9 2 3 8
Sudoku 9
2 8 7 1 4 #8
3 4 1 7 6 5
7 3 4 8 2 6
9 1 2 3 5 4
8 5 6 9 7 1
1 2 3 5 8 7
6 9 8 4 1 2
4 7 5 6 9 3
7
1
3
3
6 4
Sudoku #7
1 4 7
5 6 3
2 8 9
9 5 1
6 7 8
3 2 4
4 9 6
7 3 5
8 1 2
8 1
6
3 9 2 5 4
7
su do ku
Sudoku #6
9 3 5 7 1 6
6 7 4 3 2 8
2 1 8 9 5 4
© 2008 7 5 3 2 6 1
KrazyDad.com
8 6 9 4 7 3
1 4 2 8 9 5
3 9 7 6 8 2
5 2 6 1 4 9
8
BOOK 63 4#5 1 5 3 7
1
6
8 2
ch
1
4
1
2
1
7
9
5
3
4
8
9
5
3 6
8 4
1 2
6 7
4 5 1
8 7 3
6 2 9
Check next Tuesday’s paper for
9
the solution to today’s puzzle.
6
Sudoku #8
8





